Our route

Here's our planned route - contacts/advice for all destinations welcome! Or why not come & meet us somewhere ;-)

Feb/March - Ukraine to Istanbul, via Moldova (& Transnitria)/Romania/Serbia/Bulgaria (Lisa); south France to Istanbul, via Slovenia/Italy/Greece (Chris)
April - Istanbul, Jordan & Israel
late April/May - north India to Nepal, overland
June/July - Hong Kong, Thailand/Cambodia/Vietnam (Hanoi)/South Korea/Japan
August - Hawaii & California
September/October - central America - Panama to Guatemala, overland
late October - arrive in Canada (Uxbridge, ON)

Thursday, February 21, 2013

Top 10 travel items: learning from experience


Somewhere in Guatemala (probably while waiting for a bus!), we took some time to debate our “top ten” backpacking essentials. Now that the trip was nearly finished we felt enough like experts to actually nominate some items for packing lists....

In no particular order, here is what we came up with:

1. Source of light. We couldn't agree whether the headtorch or the camping lantern was the better option – both have their advantages & disadvantages – but we were certainly grateful for the ability to light our way...especially in Nepal where electricity is so unreliable. Something with AA batteries is probably best as you seem to be able to get these everywhere.

2. Power Monkey (solar charger). Probably not for the reasons you're thinking. Yes, the solar panel was handy for charging our phones in Nepal, but what made the Power Monkey indispensable was the selection of connectors. We became experts at configuring these so we could charge just about anything whenever we encountered an electrical outlet...for example, mini USB – USB output - USB input - American plug was perfect for the camera ;-) This gadget allowed us to toss out many of our item-specific chargers.

3. Malarone (malaria medication). Yes, it was terrifically expensive (more than GBP 2 per tablet, and that's after some serious bargain-hunting). But we passed in and out of a LOT of malaria regions and these meds made it simple to protect ourselves. Since it's new, there are no known resistant strains which means we could feel equally well protected in Thailand or in Guatemala. Starting the cycle 1-2 days before arrival in a malaria zone, and ending it one week after departure (instead of one week/one month respectively as it is with most malaria meds) meant that our bodies got a break from medication on a regular basis. And don't bother to give that old advice “it's better to avoid being bitten” unless you have personally encountered a Panamanian cloudforest mosquito...an insect who can easily drill right through denim. Did we mention that Malarone doesn't have any side effects either?

4. Silk sleep sheets. Picked up for a bargain at the market in Vietnam (2 for about US$ 18). Lightweight, incredibly compact and so comfortable to sleep in. We're not sure how this works but the mosquitoes didn't seem to bite through them – so, with the addition of Lisa's comedic mosquito-net jacket, these completely replaced the need for a mosquito net and made sleeping in hammocks a viable option.

5. Bug repellent & sunscreen combi spray. Vital for central America and Thailand, where there are dengue fever-carrying mozzies who are active during the day – and the sun is wicked. We found this in camping shops in London and San Diego, but it was difficult to find in foreign cities – so stock up in advance!

6. Pop-up sunhat. It looked ridiculous when it arrived in the post in London in January, but this was by far Lisa's favourite must-have item. It provided more than enough shade for face, neck and chest when in use, and folded into the back pocket of the daypack when she didn't need it. Plus, with it's handpainted butterfly decoration, it was immensely popular with tourist and locals alike! We must find a way to get a shipment of these to the lovely ladies at the Angkor Wat stalls....


7. Prescription sunglasses. Another item that looked positively goofy when received during a British winter. But what would we have done without these in the glaring sun of Nepal, Thailand, central America....and Kiev? Snow can reflect the sunshine just as well as a white beach can!

8. Kindle. We were a bit worried about our gadgets making us a target for robbers. But, at least in most cities, electronics are so ubiquitous that ours were hardly noticeable. (The one time we were definitely noticed was on a bus in Costa Rica – but the guys quickly lost interest when it transpired that we didn't have any Spanish books!) We carried novels, guidebooks, translation guides, religious texts...huge amounts of information in a tiny package. And it might actually have been less obvious that we were tourists when people couldn't tell that we were reading the Lonely Planet. But the maps are useless ;-)

9. Inflatable pillow. Yep, the kind you blow up and wrap around your neck during a long flight. Who would've guessed that this would also be handy for camping...oh yeah, and for Nepal, where pillows (and mattresses!) are few and far between. The blow-up pillow was actually so comfy (and reliably bug-free) that it was used in favour of many hotel & hostel pillows along the way. And of course it was great for overnight bus trips as well as our many flights. The plushy fleece neck pillow was way too bulky – it never made it out of Kiev!

10. Camping stove & utensils. Our old Camping Gaz stove didn't prove to be very useful (the fuel is too hard to find outside of Europe/North America), but the Primus-compatible one we picked up in Nepal saw a lot of action. We could boil our own water (much better than using iodine), make dinner with the weird items we picked up at the market, have a cup of coffee whenever we wanted to, and generally just be self-sufficient. Our utensils were minimal – one large pot, a couple of bowls, and a travel coffee mug along with a couple of sporks & knives should be all you need. Doesn't take up much space and weighs practically nothing!

An important special mention...Kudos to Osprey for designing a pack which is not only really comfortable, but includes a lot of clever features. We would never go back to a top-loading pack after enjoying the access provided by this front-loading style; also, one of our must-have features is straps that zip away for flights & bus trips. Lisa's Osprey had one unique feature that flummoxed airport security the world over – and made her feel much more confident when strolling around strange cities – the zipper for the daypack is on the back, only accessible when it's not being worn.


It is probably obvious that any backpacker also needs the following: camping towel; flip flops; hiking boots; umbrella. Clothing advice is tougher – especially when encountering a lot of different cultures & religions – but a few very useful bits were: zip-off pants (instantly converting to temple-friendly attire); a thin but warm sweater (Lisa's old cotton one from H&M is still going strong); a pashmina (head cover, beach cover-up, modesty shawl, curtain....the uses were endless); and maybe the magic wrap Lisa picked up in Hawai'i. The latter was almost as useful as the pashmina but also provided a rare opportunity to feel dressed-up, which came in handy when meeting up with ex-colleagues in central America. Whether a raincoat is useful enough to warrant it's bulkiness is still up for debate! But we can categorically say that if you want one, bring it with you - when Lisa left hers on the bus in Costa Rica, she found it challenging to replace...they are pretty much unheard of there! 

For contrast, here's our list of dead weight:

a. Water filter. While we used water purifying tablets and iodine to kill bugs in drinking water we rarely used the filter. We initially thought this would be a way to make water super-safe by removing bacteria but, as we were backpacking, you couldn't filter then carry very much at a time and often bottled water seemed an easier solution when in a town.  The filter IS great if you have access to lakes & rivers.

b. Mosquito net. This is generally provided by your hotel/hostel/host if needed...and if it's not, good luck finding a way to hang up your own. See point 4 above for our preferred alternative.  Probably most useful as a mattress cover in dodgy hotels/hostels - or at least, Lisa didn't suffer from bedbug bites when she used it this way  =)

c. Tent. In retrospect, we did not travel in a way that required a tent. Much of our journeying was centred around accommodation in towns or hostels and, although we used the tent twice, this didn't justify the extra space in our bags.  However, travellers spending a long time in South Korea and/or Japan will find that this is an excellent way to save on expensive accommodation.

d. Sleeping bags. See 'Tent' above. These two things went hand in hand and the climate we travelled through was too warm for sleeping bags; we ended up investing in the sleep sheets featured as item 4.

e. Rain cover for backpack. When it rains in the tropics, it REALLY rains and this cover wasn't adequate protection. It also made it awkward for the "bus boy" to grab our backpacks & throw them on/off the top of the bus. And during an impressive deluge experienced while in a bus (with the packs riding on top, of course), the raincover blew off Chris' pack in the high winds, leaving it to get soaked. It would have been much smarter to use drybags or bin liners INSIDE the pack to protect our belongings.

f. DEET. We tried it all, from 15% to 99%. The latter destroyed watch straps and the lining of raincoats...but we didn't actually notice any difference in the amount of mosquito bites experienced. Obviously everyone's body chemistry is different (and undoubtedly certain products are more/less repellent to certain types of mosquitoes), but frankly we'd rather use a natural product such as citronella instead of such harsh chemicals. The same goes for our Permethrin clothing spray (although it did reduce the population of flies outside our sister's house in San Diego!).

g. Face wash/laundry soap. A bar of mild soap covers both of these requirements and will not explode all over your pack.  And this is from a woman with dry, sensitive skin - which never looked & felt healthier than it did at the end of this trip!

Of course, everyone's trip is different - but maybe our experience & opinions will help others to decide what's worth hauling around on their own long journey!