After a slightly odd train journey from Odessa (firstly, the train started from a platform OUTSIDE the station....then, all but one passenger got off at the first stop...finally, we travelled through Transnistria which seemed to consist of large concrete buildings and mysterious fires...) - I arrived in Chisinau late in the evening. I successfully located the bus towards downtown, but when I arrived at the street where my hostel was located, I found it was guarded by a fierce-looking dog. Having circumnavigated this hazard, I then learned that Moldovan street numbering bears no resemblance to street numbering systems I've encountered before. Finally I asked a Russian bloke for assistance. This became a tour of all local apartment buildings and at least one apartment (people in Chisinau don't lock their doors - eat your heart out, Michael Moore). My new companion surpassed all my expectations by delivering me to the door of the hostel...eventually.
The next morning, I enjoyed my free breakfast and waved good-bye to the only other guest. Armed with a map of the city, I tried to decide what to do. In most cities this wouldn't be a challenge, but Chisinau isn't really laid out for visitors - the sights are subtle and spread around the city in various areas. Luckily I managed to plan to meet Anastasia (ex-girlfriend of a Kiev contact) for lunch so I set out to our planned meeting point, the cathedral. I have to say that this is the smallest cathedral I've ever seen, but it is set in a lovely park which seems very popular with local families.
Lunch at La Placinte included: chicken soup (served with sour cream and a hot pepper); placinte (a stuffed bread - mine was with soft cheese and herbs); and local wine (like Kiev, it felt strange to be drinking alcohol in what is effectively a fast food restaurant!). The food was delicious and the company was equally good - Anastasia filled me in on the local architecture (even the new buildings are suspiciously Communist - giant and blocky), and also the recent political history (apparently Moldova set a world record for the longest time without a president - their previous one quit after protests about election irregularities, and the new one had just been appointed 2 years later!).
After lunch I set out on the bus to Cricova, to visit a famous winery. It was a lovely ride throught the countryside (vines vines everywhere!) and I felt well looked after with the bus conductor periodically updating me - in Russian - on the bus route. Finally we arrived at a narrow lane where I was told to walk down to the winery. When I arrived, the reception was closed and the security guard indicated that I should wait...and wait...and wait. About 20 minutes later a woman finally arrived and informed me that the winery is ONLY accessible via a tour...and it was my bad luck that there were no more English tours booked that day. She told me to wait another 45 minutes to join a German tour, which would cost MDL 350 (about £20) without any actual wine being tasted!. I expressed my disappointment and returned to the bus stop - ah well, at least I had a nice tour of the countryside, and I was happy to find that I could buy the wine for the bargain price of MDL 35 at "More Pivo" (pivo = beer) across the road from the hostel.
I spent a jolly evening drinking my wine (a sparkling red, very tasty) with the hostel staff - at some point, a random person delivered some snacks and promptly disappeared! - and talking Moldovan culture.
The next day I wandered thourgh the market and along the main shopping street, Stefan cel Mare. Mostly gold & jewellery shops but a few "gems" for me - see below! Also I got a chance to experience the unique Moldovan queueing system when I tried to exchange money at the bank. Apparently in Moldova it's OK to just tell someone you're behind them in the queue - then you are free to wander off, sit down, run some errands or whatever. Suddenly you return to your spot, just in time for your turn. Too bad for the elderly lady who was "behind" me that I speak neither Russian nor Romanian - she had a small panic attack when she thought I didn't understand her, when she returned to her spot behind me. Of course, I knew what was going on but had no words to reassure her!
Before I knew it, it was time to head back to the hostel and collect my bag. I was planning to go to the historical museum, but when we called to check the hours we found that it was closed (on a Friday?!). So, I took my time enjoying coffee and my Chisinau torte. Then I hauled my pack down to the main road, with the plan that I would catch the marshrutka to the bus station. Too bad for me that it was rush hour - the marshrutka drivers were really NOT interested in taking on a passenger with such large luggage, and kept driving past! Finally I stood in front of one ;-) The bus driver was none to happy with me - lots of grumbling - but the other passengers were lovely and helped me to a seat, then moved my pack so it was next to me. I made a new Moldovan friend, Eugene, who turned out to be a godsend when the marshrutka pulled up at the bus station with a scant 5 minutes to spare until the departure to Brasov - he got the bus to wait and helped me to get my ticket, and was just so nice!!
Too soon, I was jolting over the hills and through the valleys of Moldova on my way to Romania.
General impresssions of Moldova were not great at the beginning. Chisinau is not obviously beautiful - both the buildings and the people seem grey and bland. But over the 2 days that I was there, it quickly grew on me - the people are warm & friendly, and you see the sweetest scenes of family life in the many forested parks in the center. One of my favourite moments was a grandpa and a small boy who were slowly stalking pigeons outside the cathedral. The look of joy on their faces when the flock took off was such a pleasure =)
It seems like a highly religious country (if the shrines are any kind of clue) and life is simple. The owner of the hostel said that her 2 children live in America but they miss their friends and the life in Chisinau. It was great to hear this as it seems like a country that is still fairly immune to the material excesses of many countries. I'm glad I had a chance to visit, even if it was very brief.
The next morning, I enjoyed my free breakfast and waved good-bye to the only other guest. Armed with a map of the city, I tried to decide what to do. In most cities this wouldn't be a challenge, but Chisinau isn't really laid out for visitors - the sights are subtle and spread around the city in various areas. Luckily I managed to plan to meet Anastasia (ex-girlfriend of a Kiev contact) for lunch so I set out to our planned meeting point, the cathedral. I have to say that this is the smallest cathedral I've ever seen, but it is set in a lovely park which seems very popular with local families.
Lunch at La Placinte included: chicken soup (served with sour cream and a hot pepper); placinte (a stuffed bread - mine was with soft cheese and herbs); and local wine (like Kiev, it felt strange to be drinking alcohol in what is effectively a fast food restaurant!). The food was delicious and the company was equally good - Anastasia filled me in on the local architecture (even the new buildings are suspiciously Communist - giant and blocky), and also the recent political history (apparently Moldova set a world record for the longest time without a president - their previous one quit after protests about election irregularities, and the new one had just been appointed 2 years later!).
After lunch I set out on the bus to Cricova, to visit a famous winery. It was a lovely ride throught the countryside (vines vines everywhere!) and I felt well looked after with the bus conductor periodically updating me - in Russian - on the bus route. Finally we arrived at a narrow lane where I was told to walk down to the winery. When I arrived, the reception was closed and the security guard indicated that I should wait...and wait...and wait. About 20 minutes later a woman finally arrived and informed me that the winery is ONLY accessible via a tour...and it was my bad luck that there were no more English tours booked that day. She told me to wait another 45 minutes to join a German tour, which would cost MDL 350 (about £20) without any actual wine being tasted!. I expressed my disappointment and returned to the bus stop - ah well, at least I had a nice tour of the countryside, and I was happy to find that I could buy the wine for the bargain price of MDL 35 at "More Pivo" (pivo = beer) across the road from the hostel.
I spent a jolly evening drinking my wine (a sparkling red, very tasty) with the hostel staff - at some point, a random person delivered some snacks and promptly disappeared! - and talking Moldovan culture.
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| Green Hills - thanks for the free samples! |
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| Meat, cakes & bread |
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| Moldovan special candies & sweets |
Before I knew it, it was time to head back to the hostel and collect my bag. I was planning to go to the historical museum, but when we called to check the hours we found that it was closed (on a Friday?!). So, I took my time enjoying coffee and my Chisinau torte. Then I hauled my pack down to the main road, with the plan that I would catch the marshrutka to the bus station. Too bad for me that it was rush hour - the marshrutka drivers were really NOT interested in taking on a passenger with such large luggage, and kept driving past! Finally I stood in front of one ;-) The bus driver was none to happy with me - lots of grumbling - but the other passengers were lovely and helped me to a seat, then moved my pack so it was next to me. I made a new Moldovan friend, Eugene, who turned out to be a godsend when the marshrutka pulled up at the bus station with a scant 5 minutes to spare until the departure to Brasov - he got the bus to wait and helped me to get my ticket, and was just so nice!!
Too soon, I was jolting over the hills and through the valleys of Moldova on my way to Romania.
General impresssions of Moldova were not great at the beginning. Chisinau is not obviously beautiful - both the buildings and the people seem grey and bland. But over the 2 days that I was there, it quickly grew on me - the people are warm & friendly, and you see the sweetest scenes of family life in the many forested parks in the center. One of my favourite moments was a grandpa and a small boy who were slowly stalking pigeons outside the cathedral. The look of joy on their faces when the flock took off was such a pleasure =)
It seems like a highly religious country (if the shrines are any kind of clue) and life is simple. The owner of the hostel said that her 2 children live in America but they miss their friends and the life in Chisinau. It was great to hear this as it seems like a country that is still fairly immune to the material excesses of many countries. I'm glad I had a chance to visit, even if it was very brief.
Very nice report. Makes me very curious about Moldova. I am sure they have interesting Easter traditions as well.
ReplyDeleteWell, Orthodox Easter is next weekend so you have time to get there ;-)
ReplyDeleteYes, I was keen to get there since Moldova seems to have very few tourists. I'll write a short report on a few of my favourite traveller forums so others have some idea what to expect!