Out and a-boot in Southern Italy

Staying in a lovely hostel called Giovanni's Home. And it actually is his home! And he cooks a mean pasta!

Painted walls at Herculaneum

This leg of the trip seems to be all about the ruins. First visit was to Herculaneum, Pompeii's less famous sister. It was buried in the same eruption but in mud rather than ash, so a crazy amount of stuff was preserved intact such as wood and other organic what-nots. Pompeii was grander and bigger and had the advantage of a well-preserved 'house of ill repute', with appropriate frescoes. In both of these towns it's amazing what's been preserved, such as paint on the walls, intricate mosaics and serving areas for snack kiosks (these are not toilets in the picture).

Preserved buildings at Herculaneum

After Rome Naples had a bit of an edgier feel. The architecture is partly the reason. It's like a modern old town. Lots of narrow streets, shadowed by tall ominous buildings, as no-one could build outside the town walls for ages. Certainly atmospheric and I've now become expert at dodging vespas.

Fresco on wall at Herculaneum

Pompeii, snack bar

Giovanni constructed a walking tour of Naples for us taking in his favourite sites. The archaeological museum was good and hosted the best (naugthtiest) items and art recovered from Pompeii in the 'Secret Room'. A bit tongue in cheek really, as when they were first discovered it was feared they would corrupt the young, so only older more sober individuals were allowed to see them! Turn away now if you're easily offended.

Pan getting to know a goat!

From the 'Secret Room'

Among the usual bevy of amazing churches was the intriguing Chapel of San Severo. The Prince of San Severo was reputed to be an alchemist and freemason. He designed the interior decoration, incorporating masonic symbology,  and supposedly formulated the paint used in the frescoes so that even now they look freshly painted. He also commissioned some unusual sculptures, including the 'Veiled Christ', which looks unbelievably delicate and life-like. Unfortunately, there were no photos allowed so I'll see if I can find some ones on the web.


After some extremely tasty pizza, it was off to Bari to get the ferry to Patras, in Greece and a 15 hour journey to look forward to.

Dogs in antiquity did this too